Most of the water I consume in this country comes in the form of street side fruit shakes, hipster quality coffee, and the broth from a daily bowl of noodles. However, I often for-go the broth and opt for haeng (dry) style noodles. This can seem counter intuitive with the amount of liquid I add back into the dish via fish sauce and vinegar, but the vacation of broth frees up space for all the add ons.

Racha Ba Mee Kiow checks all the important boxes for me when it comes to a haeng style noodle spot. They open late and close even later, crispy pork skin as well as red sliced pork are on offer, and the shrimp comes whole as well as encased in wontons. When I sit down, sometime in the later tûm hours, for a pi set bowl of ก๋วยเตี๋ยวแห้ง (dry noodles) I get all the above. Like I said, the vacation of broth makes room for the extras.

I particularly like this side of the road noodle stand because it is just that, a noodle stand, on the side of the road. It has no frills, the seats are comfortably uncomfortable, and the water is complementary; ice from the standard big blue bin.

A bowl of noodles, with or without broth, will run you 40 to 60 baht depending on the proteins and size. You order by writing the name of what you want, in Thai, on a white scratch of paper, or it’s corresponding number if you think the language here looks more like art than letters.

Racha Ba Mee Kiow

Open: 18:00-24:00 Everyday


The Good Stuff Chiang Mai

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